🧭 Lapland by season: Rovaniemi, Levi, Ylläs, Saariselkä, Inari

Picture opening a map that's way beyond the Arctic Circle: Rovaniemi, Levi, Ylläs, Saariselkä, Inari — names like something out of a fairy tale, and the forecast is either -4 and wet snow or -22 and a starry sky. You might think you've read about the weather and seasons in Finland, but Lapland has its own rules. In winter, there's dry frost and short daylight hours; in spring, there's snowy "April May"; in summer, there's sun that never seems to set; and in autumn, there's ruska and the first lights of the Northern Lights.

This text isn't about the perfect shot from an ad, but about reality: which months are best for flying to see the aurora, when it's more comfortable to travel, when to take the kids, and when it's better to leave your plans for "later". There'll be tables, descriptions and a simple "go/no-go" cheat sheet to make sure the weather doesn't ruin your trip.

Lapland at a glance: where it's colder, where it's lighter

This table already shows the character of each place: Rovaniemi is gentler and more "urban", Levi/Ylläs is about skiing and March firn, Saariselkä and Inari are slightly further north and harsher, but with polar nights and a real feeling of being at the "end of the map".

Winter in Lapland: from kaamos to a March fairy tale

Winter here begins even before the calendar. Snow falls at the end of November, in December the day shrinks to a few hours, and at night the darkness becomes almost physical — that very feeling of winter in Finland, but at its most extreme.

When it's as cold as -15°C in Lapland in December and January, you'll be amazed at how good it feels compared to the slushy zero temperatures you get in a city by the sea. The air is dry, people aren't in a rush, and all around you you can hear the whisper of snow and the soft hum of snowmobile engines. There's loads to do too, like sleigh safaris, skiing, winter trails, reindeer excursions and, of course, hunting for the Northern Lights.

February and March are the months when lots of people fall in love with Lapland for good. There's more light, the sun rises higher, and the snow still holds its shape. In the morning, you can go skiing, in the afternoon, you can walk in the fells, and in the evening, you can go out to see the northern lights — and you won't feel like it's eternal night. If you don't like the dark but still want a "full" winter, then March is the month for you.

Spring, summer and autumn: Lapland without stereotypes

When spring comes around, you can still see snow on the ground, but the days are already feeling long. You can set out on the trail later, take it easy to enjoy the "only hour of daylight" and head back before it gets dark. The sun's reflection in the snow makes sunglasses more important than a hat.

In summer, Lapland changes its style. Instead of a "snowy postcard," you get moss, lakes, wooden decks, and the sun that creeps along the horizon but never disappears. The evening isn't the "end of the day" anymore – it's just another warm period for a walk, SUP or hike. Instead of the northern lights, you'll catch the midnight sun, and you'll know you're still in nature, not a movie set, because you'll be able to spot mosquitoes.

When autumn comes around, especially in September, Lapland becomes a really intimate place. Ruska starts in the fells, where you've got yellow and red carpets, clear air and cool nights. During the day, you'll be walking along golden trails, and by evening, you'll already be able to see the first streaks of the northern lights. There are fewer crowds, there's enough light, and the temperatures are not yet extreme.

Go/No-Go honestly: when the weather is okay

Sometimes, you just want a simple answer: "Should I go skiing today or stay in with some cinnamon and coffee?" No one can decide that for you, but you can set some guidelines. Anything below is not a universal law, but a benchmark for common sense.

If you see a forecast of 15 m/s winds and a blizzard, this is not a reason to cancel your trip, but it is a good reason to postpone your ambitious route in the fells and opt for a warm hotel, swimming pool, museums and short walks within the illuminated trails.

What to take to Lapland so you don't have to play the hero

Lapland does not like extremes such as "I'll go in one sweatshirt" or "I'll take half my wardrobe". It is respected with the same three layers as the rest of Finland, only a little more seriously:

● two sets of thermal underwear (so you don't have to dry the only one you have in a panic);

● Warm mid-layer — fleece or wool, sometimes two options in terms of thickness;

● insulated jacket or good membrane paired with a thick mid-layer;

● winter boots with treads and ice grips;

● mittens over thin gloves so you can get your phone out without freezing your fingers;

● a buff or balaclava, a hat with ear flaps;

● glasses to protect against wind and glare;

● a headlamp: in the kaamos, it's as much about safety as it is about romance.

If you've already read the guide to what to bring to Finland, then you know the basic logic is the same, it's just that in Lapland, everything feels more intense. The wrong socks or a forgotten buff can ruin your experience of the most beautiful night with the Northern Lights.

When to go: find your season

Conventionally, you can imagine that Lapland has four "chosen" windows — for different types of travellers.

If you are going for the first time and are afraid of severe frost, look at the end of February and March. The light is already full, the frost is milder, the snow stays, and the programme of "skiing + walking + a chance to see the aurora" looks as friendly as possible.

If you want a harsh winter wonderland and are not afraid of the dark, December and January are your best bet. It is important to accept in advance that the days are short and that you need to plan in blocks: street → warm room → street again, rather than spending the whole day outdoors.

If your soul craves a polar summer without night, go for June–July. This is a different Lapland: hiking, lakes, wooden walkways, moss and endless soft light instead of a twinkling sky.

If you want ruska and the start of the northern lights without the crowds, mark September in your calendar. A week or a week and a half in the right window — and you'll have enough colours, darkness and that very "autumn silence" in the mountains.

If this is your first time in Lapland

You'll soon find yourself planning a return visit to Lapland more often than you'd expect. At first, you'll just want to see the snow and the northern lights, but then you'll start looking for specific experiences, like the March firn, the September ruska or a quiet summer at Lake Inari.

Let us know in the comments which season you're thinking of travelling in: winter, spring, summer or autumn? When are you thinking of going and what do you most fear – darkness, frost or not being able to guess the right week? Share your experiences, itineraries and photos: real stories from travellers help others choose their season in Lapland based on their feelings rather than pictures.

We read the comments and adjust new articles — about the weather, equipment, and routes — so that your next ticket to the north is not a "random attempt" but a conscious choice of the right light, snow, and temperature.